Monday, March 1, 2010

I think our bus definitely almost just hit that moto

So I know a lot of people say that LA drivers are crazy. Let me correct you: LA drivers generally safe drivers who know how to get where they are going fast and follow the laws; Paraguayans are crazy drivers who tend to make their own rules as they drive. As a PCT and PCV, I am not allowed to operate a car or moto (in fact riding on a moto at any time will result in my return to the United States). Because of that, my main mode of transportation is taking the bus, and I used to think that taking the bus in the US sucked. I stand corrected.
First, there usually aren’t official bus stops and instead, you wait by the side of the road and when the right bus comes down the road, you raise your hand in the air to let them know you want on. If you’re lucky, you won’t have to wait long but I have waited for over 45 minutes more than once. If there’s a line of people getting on or off they have to come to a complete stop, but if you’re the only one it’s kind of more of a rolling stop as you step on and they are already stepping on the gas as you’re handing them change and making your way onto the bus. Again, if you’re lucky, there’s an open seat but more than likely, you will have to stand, particularly during “rush hour.”
There really is no “maximum capacity” and they will continue to pack on more people even in 95 degree heat plus humidity. One morning on our way to training 4 of us got on a bus and I honestly wasn’t sure the 4 of us would fit. I was definitely wrong because I think 10 more people got on before anyone else got off. The 4 of us were spooning standing up and one of the girls didn’t even have to hold onto anything it was so crammed. The whole bus experience is further complicated when you’re wearing a backpack not only because it takes up more space, but because you have to wear it on your front so nothing gets stolen in the chaotic mish-mosh of people. When there actually is a little room to breath and move, you have to hold on to rails on the ceiling or onto the seats to keep from falling over.
I thought I had good balance until I got onto a bus in Paraguay. I don’t know how they do it, but I’ve seen many Paraguayans make their way through a bus not holding onto anything and not even come close to falling. More than once, I’ve almost fallen over, even when I’m holding on for dear life because the bus drivers have lead feet and slam on the brakes faster than I used to in LA traffic. It is not uncommon for a bus to drive into the other lane (of oncoming traffic) to pass a car or moto that is driving too slow. Also most intersections don’t really have stop lights unless you’re in the city, so when there’s a lot of cars, it tends to be a race to see who can get across the intersection first. If there is a car coming from the left, you just keep pushing your way through the intersection and hope you block the car from going any further so you can be the first one across. I also think that lanes or more of a suggestion than an actual law. My first day on a bus I was positive we were going to hit a car and in fact we got so close you couldn’t even see the car anymore. It never fails to surprise and scare me when our bus come inches from running into a moto or other car on the road, but so far I haven’t been in any accidents so apparently these bus drivers have something going for them.
The drive is further entertaining depending on where you’re going and what kind of people you get on your bus. Any white person in Paraguay stands out like a sore thumb, so I get stares pretty much everywhere I go. Yesterday I was on a bus to Asuncion and this old guy behind me asked me where I was from so I told him I was from the United States. We got into a conversation and then he asked me if I was German or American. I’m not really sure which part of “I’m from the United States” he didn’t understand, but apparently he needed further clarification. Also, once you get into the city there are usually vendors that hop on the bus and walk through the bus trying to sell their product and hop off a block or two later. Most of the time it’s stuff like gum, nail clippers, or newspapers, but one guy got on my bus yesterday that was selling some sort of liquid that apparently cured every ailment from headaches and rashes to tiredness and ulcers. I wonder if it could make you immune to heat and humidity…
I think public transportation kinda sucks no matter where you are, you just have less personal space in certain places. I still haven’t gotten used to busses almost running people off the road, but like I said, I haven’t gotten in an accident yet. Once you kinda get used to the busses, it’s really not all that bad and it feels a little bit normal, but maybe that’s because it’s been too long since I’ve driven on a freeway.

3 comments:

  1. Dear Sardine,
    Does everyone wear deodorant? I can only imagine the assault on the nose when packed in a bus "butt to butt" so to speak in 90 degree weather and 99% humidity. Must be fun! But, who knows: by the time you return home, you may find L.A. drivers crazy and long for the "normalcy" of a crowded bus.
    Love you tons and am trying to reach you by phone! One of these days...Siempre, su madre. :)

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  2. hahaha sounds just like Bulgarian buses!! Oh, and I bet that liquid he was selling was windex!

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  3. We were just looking forward to going to see you in Paraguay. Now we're definately looking forward to riding on a bus to see you in Paraguay! Thanks again for keeping us informed and entertained. Have you had a typical day yet? What was it like?

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